by Valerie Summers
The plan for a long weekend getaway with my fiancée included one day each outdoors in Marin County, the Napa wine country and San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park. My well chosen base in San Rafael at the Four Points Sheraton situated in the middle of Marin provided easy access to my destinations and proved an economical choice.
On a bright, sunny and crisp day one in mid-December, we headed for Sausalido, a posh seaside town where we stopped for brunch just across the way from the marina.
Muir Woods
Next on the agenda was a beautiful drive along a tree lined curving country road to nearby Muir Woods. For a transcendental experience, there can be no better place than Muir Woods National Monument. A remnant of ancient coast redwood forests this gift of nature would not exist today had William and Elizabeth Kent not bought the land in this valley in 1805 to protect one of the last stands of uncut redwoods. They donated 295 acres of redwoods to the federal government and in 1908 President Theodore Roosevelt proclaimed the area a national monument. At the Kent’s request, it was name for conservationist John Muir.
The now 560-acre park includes six miles of trails, mostly paved and level. Several bridges made short loop walks possible but some unpaved trails connected with Mt. Tamalpais State Park, home to the county’s highest mountain, for a more challenging hike. We wandered through the coast redwood forest for hours awed by the spectacle of these majestic gifts of nature. We discovered the Bohemian and Cathedral groves are home to the biggest trees in Muir Woods, some having lived for more than 1,000 years, the tallest over 252 feet and the widest over 14 feet. Strolling through the shady woods, we were overcome with a sense of tranquility and an appreciation for the opportunity to experience this glorious and peaceful destination.
Our second day was spent exploring the Silverado wine trail in the Napa Valley. We had decided to include only boutique wineries with exclusive distribution on our agenda and were delighted with our choices. Driving through Napa’s scenery provided a treat in itself with the vineyards and trees dressed in their brightly colored autumn finery illuminating the rolling hills with the bright blue skies overhead. It was a good idea to call ahead for appointments at the wineries we chose to visit since most were not open to drop-ins.
Reynolds Family Winery
We were greeted at our first stop by a friendly red cat named Burt Reynolds of the Reynolds Family Winery. Gregarious Mike, the man in charge, filled us in on the history of the place, once a century year old chicken farm. Reborn as a Tuscan-style winery, Reynolds first production was a 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon. In the cozy tasting room, we sipped from their expanded selection of Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, Merlots and our favorite, a red wine blend called Persistence, while nibbling dark chocolates and crackers between tastings before moving out to the inviting patio overlooking a lagoon fronting the vineyards.
Black Stallion, the largest and most opulent of the wineries we visited is the latest addition to the small collection of wineries in Napa Valley’s newly designated Oak Knoll District. The statue of a large ebony horse fronted the mission style building which housed the tasting room. Inside, the festive sounds of clinking wine glasses and happy chatter from oenophiles gathered around the handsome wine bar greeted us. Off to the side, a large formally set table flanked by oak wine barrels set the scene for a private party. The Black Stallion portfolio included nine varietals including Cabernet Sauvignon, a Chardonnay and a dessert wine, with less than 4,000 cases produced.
We sat, sipping wine, under umbrellas on the patio of the petite Baldacci Family Vineyards overlooking the autumn vineyards fronted by stacks of dark finished grape vines. Situated in the well known Stags Leap District known for its history of producing Cabernet Sauvignon, the Baldacci family carries on the family tradition of sharing their fine wines with family, friends and visitors. Winemaker Rolando Herrera’s philosophy “is to make wines with silky, velvety texture and great character – no monster tannins. My charge is to make the best wine possible while respecting the vineyard site and its terroir. Stags Leap district has the outstanding vineyard terroir that I need to make that happen.” We agree.
“Ghost Winery” is the name given to the few remaining early Napa Valley wineries that existed between 1860 and 1900. The Regusci Winery is one of them. The winery’s three-story hand-cut stone façade fronts a building designed exclusively for wine production resulting in 115,000 cases. In 1932, Gaetano Regusci purchased the historic piece of property and started producing this own estate wines. As was typical in the Napa Valley in the early days, a farmer could not make living growing only grapes so to supplement their income, they also farmed other crops. The family was eventually able to focus on farming only wine grapes and in 1996, they crushed their first vintage of Stags Leap District wines. In 1998, showcasing its estate wines, Regusci winery opened, by appointment only, for tours and tastings.
Our final stop took us to Yountville, a tiny upscale hamlet featuring a variety of art galleries, boutique shops and fine restaurants. Our excellent choice, Bouchon, an offshoot of the famous French Laundry, provided a perfect ending to a beautiful day in Napa.
de Young Museum at Golden Gate Park
Although our agenda for day three was set to explore Golden Gate Park, the weather caused us to modify our plans and instead took us inside two of its museums, the de Young and newly opened California Academy of Sciences. I happily explored the exclusive Yves Saint Laurent exhibit at the de Young (on display through April 5, 2009) showcasing 40 years of creativity. The clothing he designed became true timeless classics in women’s wardrobes. Among my favorites, of the 125 accessorized outfits on display, was his salute in fabric to renowned artists including Van Gogh, Picasso and Mondrian.
A visit to the de Young Tower afforded the opportunity to take in a dramatic 360-degree view of San Francisco and the park which we had planned to explore. Some of the highlights of the de Young’s permanent exhibit which we visited include: Art in America to the 20th Century, 20th-Century and Contemporary Art, Art of the Americas, Native American Art, Art of Africa and Oceania and Textiles.
We explored another special exhibit, environmental artist Maya Lin’s unique Systematic Landscapes (on display until January 18, 2009) which used massive scale to reveal new and unexpected views of the natural world in wood, wire, metal cables and ordinary pins. One of her sculptures hovers above the back entrance to the newly opened California Academy of Sciences, our final stop.
Baldacci Family Vineyards
We sat, sipping wine, under umbrellas on the patio of the petite Baldacci Family Vineyards overlooking the autumn vineyards fronted by stacks of dark finished grape vines. Situated in the well known Stags Leap District known for its history of producing Cabernet Sauvignon, the Baldacci family carries on the family tradition of sharing their fine wines with family, friends and visitors. Winemaker Rolando Herrera’s philosophy “is to make wines with silky, velvety texture and great character – no monster tannins. My charge is to make the best wine possible while respecting the vineyard site and its terroir. Stags Leap district has the outstanding vineyard terroir that I need to make that happen.” We agree.
“Ghost Winery” is the name given to the few remaining early Napa Valley wineries that existed between 1860 and 1900. The Regusci Winery is one of them. The winery’s three-story hand-cut stone façade fronts a building designed exclusively for wine production resulting in 115,000 cases. In 1932, Gaetano Regusci purchased the historic piece of property and started producing this own estate wines. As was typical in the Napa Valley in the early days, a farmer could not make living growing only grapes so to supplement their income, they also farmed other crops. The family was eventually able to focus on farming only wine grapes and in 1996, they crushed their first vintage of Stags Leap District wines. In 1998, showcasing its estate wines, Regusci winery opened, by appointment only, for tours and tastings.
Our final stop took us to Yountville, a tiny upscale hamlet featuring a variety of art galleries, boutique shops and fine restaurants. Our excellent choice, Bouchon, an offshoot of the famous French Laundry, provided a perfect ending to a beautiful day in Napa.
Although our agenda for day three was set to explore Golden Gate Park, the weather caused us to modify our plans and instead took us inside two of its museums, the de Young and newly opened California Academy of Sciences. I happily explored the exclusive Yves Saint Laurent exhibit at the de Young (on display through April 5, 2009) showcasing 40 years of creativity. The clothing he designed became true timeless classics in women’s wardrobes. Among my favorites, of the 125 accessorized outfits on display, was his salute in fabric to renowned artists including Van Gogh, Picasso and Mondrian.
A visit to the de Young Tower afforded the opportunity to take in a dramatic 360-degree view of San Francisco and the park which we had planned to explore. Some of the highlights of the de Young’s permanent exhibit which we visited include: Art in America to the 20th Century, 20th-Century and Contemporary Art, Art of the Americas, Native American Art, Art of Africa and Oceania and Textiles.
We explored another special exhibit, environmental artist Maya Lin’s unique Systematic Landscapes (on display until January 18, 2009) which used massive scale to reveal new and unexpected views of the natural world in wood, wire, metal cables and ordinary pins. One of her sculptures hovers above the back entrance to the newly opened California Academy of Sciences, our final stop.
California Academy of Sciences
This science museum, touted as the world’s greenest museum, provides visitors of all ages with information which will hopefully inspire them to make changes in everyday living for the good of the planet. Their mission is to “explore, explain, and protect the natural world.” It features an enclosed transparent spiral rainforest allowing visitors to experience a taste of Madagascar, Costa Rica and the Amazon, an African exhibit with intricately crafted dioramas of animals including some live ones, a unique living roof and extensive aquarium along with an excellent variety of dining options for the whole family. Having recently returned from visiting the rainforest in Costa Rica, we found the popular rainforest and aquarium of special interest. One of the most popular attractions, which unfortunately we did not have time to visit, is the world’s largest all-digital planetarium featuring a live presenter who takes visitors on a guided tour of the solar system and beyond.
Our all too brief three county visit to one of California’s most beautiful and diverse areas…Napa’s glorious wine country, Marin’s magnificent Muir Woods and the extraordinary museums of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park came to an end. We left relaxed, happy and toting a large selection of fine Napa Valley wines.
More information:
Baldacci Family Vineyards
6236 Silverado Trail
Napa Valley
707/944-9261
www.baldaccivineyards.com
Black Stallion Winery
4089 Silverado Trail
Napa Valley
www.blackstallionwinery.com
California Academy of Sciences
Golden Gate Park
55 Music Concourse Drive
San Francisco
415/379-8000
www.calacademy.org
de Young Museum
Golden Gate Park
50 Tea Garden Drive
San Francisco
415/750-3600
www.deyoungmuseum.org
Four Points by Sheraton: With off-season rates as low as $125 per night, the hotel, is conveniently situated just off Highway 101. Hotel amenities include spacious guest rooms with comfy beds, a fitness center, attractive outdoor eating area overlooking a large outdoor heated swimming pool and whirlpool, free parking, room service, full service restaurant, guest Laundromat , free WIFI in rooms and lobby and 24-hour business center. The hotel proved an excellent choice for excursions into the wine country and across the Golden Gate Bridge.
1010 Northgate Drive
San Rafael
415/479-8800
www.fourpoints.com/sanrafael
Muir Woods National Monument
415/388-2595
www.nps.gov/muwo
Reynolds Family Winery
3266 Silverado Trail
Napa Valley
707/258-2558
www.reynoldsfamilywinery.com
Regusci Winery
5584 Silverado Trail
Napa Valley
707/254-0403
www.regusciwinery.com
Virgin America: Surprisingly, as a travel writer for more than 30 years, this trip provided my first opportunity to fly Virgin and now I know why this airline has become so successful. No lines. No crowds. Helpful and pleasant staff that treated us as guests, rather than being part of a “cattle call” which I have experienced with some other airlines. On-time departures and brand new planes featuring Red, an individual touch screen entertainment center which includes movies, music, games, chat rooms and more. I’ll be back.
899/359-8444
www.virginamerica.com